To Reed or not to Reed?

Hi All,

Has anyone fitted the malossi reed valve kit and if so is the performance increase really worth the hassle of fitting [permanent change to casing].



You shoulndt have to do any welding with a malossi reed kit. Its a bolt on job that only sits over the inlet tract, but can be made larger. For carburation, you cant use the 24si carb, and anyway your definately better off going to a 28-30 carb, 28 should be good enough on rotary or 30 on the reed. As for fuel usage, the reed doesnt use any extra fuel in relation to performance, but with the added performance you use extra fuel. Its all related/linked. My own 210 is on a welded set of casings, home made 6-petal reed block covering full width of the crank, and a 32 flatslide, amongst everything else. Enjoy

Hi Mark, if you have good casings, start from there and just port the crank and casings. Damaged casings are fairly easy to come by, or even just a knakered p2 engine. And unfortunately yours may become a damaged set. SHIT DOES HAPPEN. There are overall benefits from using a reed valve but a well tuned rotary is a close match. You can use your std crank too, not buy a reed, malossi or other, making it a cheaper tune and still return 70-80 and reasonable mpg

Thanks for taking the time to reply Beerace.

You find that a well tuned rotary is a close match for a reed setup.
Have you ever tried the malossi reed on welded inlet as I have heard there is a lot more gain with the reed if this is done.

The motor is a malossi 210 with a std 24mm, the casings done and a scorpion pipe. I already have the malossi reed kit (not fitted]but may just get a malossi rotary manifold if there isn’t much gain with the reed.

Do you know if the reed set up gives better mpg than the rotary with the 30mm carb, I know in theory it should, but as we all know what its supposed to do and what it actually does are two different things.

Thanks Again