I’ve a T5, and lately I can feel some vibrations in the motor as well as bearing noise arround the crankshaft. My T5 is 16 yrs. old so I’d like to change the cranckshaft bearings and seals.
I’ve never do this before so I’d like to know, witch ones are the most important things to take care and witch ones should be the most suiteable tools to do this.
How to use the distance gauge, and the way to don’t damage the crankshaft when mounting flywell side bearing (case), are ones of my dudes.
I’d be very grateful if somebody can tell me something about this subject or the place Where I can find it.
Thanks to everybody.
As no one is going to answer!
crap at explaining[:D] but if stuck just ask!
ps. don’t use complete rubber drive side oil seal
fly wheel side bearing,you have to remove the bearing race off of the crank,
have you tried trying to move the flywheel to see if thier is any play? as it might be big/small end
also check cruciform while the engine is split!
I´ve just reed your answer and have a look in your link and this will be very useful when I´ll make the job, I haven´t any experience on it. I´m going to read deeply the informatión before begin the work.
About the flyweell side bearing, i checked the play and it looked me larger than normal, anyway i´ll check it again with „hot“ motor to confirm this opinion (C3 class bearing ?). This play was the point that made me decide about change this bearings.
I want really thank your help, and your opininion.
I hope hear something about you soon.
Ok a few tips
Be very careful when removing the crankshaft. Protect the threads on the clutch side with the old clutch nut and gently tap out from the bearing.
When drifting out the old bearings heat the casing first.
Be very careful when getting the inner race off the crankshaft. I’ve seen a lot of ruined cranks by people putting them in vices around the sealing areas. Get some masking tape or similar and tape around the seal face on the flywheel side. Then fit a hose clip over the top this protects it when you cut the inner race off. Use a dremmel or thin cutting disc and carefully cut into the race along the taper axis. When you are nearly through rest the crank on the race on one jaw of your vuce and send a sharp cold chisel into the cut. This shouuld split the race and you can now remove it. Now the top tip. Get an old sundance grip(or tube of same diameter) and remove all the grub screws. Put the race on and use the grip as a drift to tap it on. Hold the crank into your belly as you do this. DON’T HEAT THE RACE TO GET IT ON. And dont put the crank in the vice as it can easily twist.
Imperitive with T5s is the metal seal. Buy two because its easy to fuck up. Use some bearing fit sealant around the outside of the seal because they do spin-they are steel and the case is ally. Its also possible to get seals that touch the bearing if it does remove it and fit a new one-if you dont it will break up and fuck your engine.Fit the seal whilst the case is still hot from fitting the bearing. You can also freeze these for easy fitting
When replaceing your crank put it in a bag in the freezer for a while(spray with light oil or wd40 first. When fitting fit a nylon wedge between the webs to stop it twisting as you tap it in.
Freeze all bearings and make sure you heat the casing so hot your spit sizzles on it before fitting bearings and they will drop in. The flywheel side is weak and can break if you thrape the bearing in.
If you use these tips and the excellent scooterhelp slidingdog has recommended you will be fine;D
Thanks diablo, I´ll try to follow your recommendations. It looks a job of much patience and right handeling of temperatures.
I take note about this.