Thats not true about the HP4 …i have had mine fitted for ages now and the lights are as bright as they have ever been and its never overheated.and it gets run flat out everyday.?..clutch slip is the only thing that is getting in my way.[:drink:]

My problem is that I found a little leakage from behind, „fuel“ flowing from behind the plate, I will do some pictures and post them tomorrow; I’m leaving you, friends for my bed, only remains me 5 hours to sleep.

Good ride, good night, good …



My preferance to a HP4 would be the middle ground.Either a lightened standard item or a modified PK alloy one.

I just don’t trust plastic.[;)] [:D]

hello Mikkke,

tanks I am getting better and better, but my total reabilitation will take about 6 months. I have just to be patient…

For the malossi base:

it is not that the malossi base plate is not flat, it is that the sits of the screws and the shape ha sto be slightly modified. They are not difficult modification, but if you don’t do them you have a lot of chances that it won’t work as it should.

I should have some shot on my digital camera about the modifications you should make.
I will post in my blog at the address below.
Hope will be clear.

Hi all,

I’m fairly sure I’ve got some photos of Curare’s Mallossi reed valve work on my hard drive at home. I’m at work now. Give me a day or two and I’ll post them.

Cheers Grimesy


I don’t have much time right now but I have all the pictures, I post them.


I have already done the job on the plate, but I decided to check everything from the start to check it a second time.
What do you think about the HP4 Flywheel with my setup?

Thanks a lot for your time and just ask if I can help you from here!


This is my setup :

  • PX150
  • Malossi 166cc
  • SIP Performance exhaust
  • Dell’orto PHBH30
  • Reed valves Malossi¨
  • Airfilter Ramair
  • Cylinder and the casings are ported together
  • Dell’Orto Fuel pump
  • Reinforced Clutch
  • 21x65
  • Malossi springs


I send them right now on your personal mail.




Still received nothing?

hello Mikkke,

if we consider Juank posting as reference, you have to consider the n°3.
In this picture is showed how you should profile the manifold base in its face in contact with the crankcase.
You have to accentuate the curve (on the picture is the curve on the right side, you can see it has been re-profiled) in a way that it doesn’t create any interference with the curve of the crankcase.
Just have a look at your manifold plate base and compare with the picture. I remember we have talked about doing this modification, maybe you didn’t shave it enough.

Another important point that I have written in the explication of the pictures:

it is absolutely necessary after you make the plate screw sit perfecly inside their recess to cut the screw of the same lenght you have made their sit deeper.
For expample if they hade their had out their plate sit of about 5mm and you have made their sit at least 5mm deeper to let thair head flat with the plate base, YOU HAVE TO CUT OUT FROM THE SCREW THE SAME LENGH, SO YOU HAVE TO MAKE THEM SHORTER .
If you don’t do it they are not going to press the base plate tightly down, since the cranckcase sits for this screw is not long enough.
To be sure take the manifold and manifod base out. Then mesure the tickness of the manifold base. Then put themanifold base screws alone in their cranckcase sit, and after they have reached the stop mesure the distance there is betweem the base of the screw head and the cranckcase. If this distance is even slighly bigger then the tickness of the manifold base plate then you need to make them shorter if not they are not been able to tight the base down.

Hope it is clear.

Diablo and JuanK and Floorplay tanks for your appreciation of my work.

Diablo I use normal tools, dremmel tools or similar, 3 or for kind with which I do mostly of my milling job.
For the mirror finish, no it doesn’t help, but it looks better and clients are more happy to have something finished this way. I have put few times on a dyno the same engine with different porting finishing technique and what I can say is: don’t boder about it. You won’t get anything more from a finishing or another. Sand, mirror…

The engines you see are not mine, are works for client.
Unfortunately in the past I didn’t have a dig camera and I didn’t have the habit of making picture of my work so some very interesting project I did are not documented. The pictures you see are from the last 9 months.

Floorplay, RZ and Scorpion are both really good exhaust, I wouldn’t say one is better then the other. In some engine I prefer the RZ and with others the Scorpion or Taffspeed or PM… Sometimes even altering the exhaust port will make the use of anothe exhaust preferable.
For example you have a Polini 177 longstroke. You try the RZ the Scorpion and the Taffspeed and at the end you choose the Scorpion.
Then after some time you alter the exhaust port and if you try all the exhaust again you will prefer the RZ.

Do they fit without much problems or modifications?

Can you give me the SIP Art. Number please?

Tanks grimesy66, for the picture. They can save alot of words.
If you had saved the other two or three I have made of the same subject is good since it seems people tend to have problem with the Malossi manifold, and they could be of some use in the future.

About the HP4 flywheel I couldn’t say it better then what patrikgrann have reported. I just had that you have more mechanical noise.
It is fun of course, it is beautiful the way it reacts at the accelerator. Not for everyday though. A good second flywheel for that day when you like it more savage.

…Vespamalossi doesn’t agree, but he is of the fast and furious mould. No compromise.

And Mikkke, I wasn’t able to open even one of the picture you have send it here…

Bloody hell,that’s beautiful.I only wish I had a fraction of that talent.

Is that your own engine or are you building it for someone else Curare?

Picture number 3

Tanks JuanK, yes these are the pictures I have sent few months ago on my blog explaining the problem you could face mounting a malossi reed block.

Mikkke, yes now I have received them, but these are my same pictures , the same Grimesy66 sent and Juank made easy to open, I thought you wanted to send me the pictures of what you have done not of what I have done. Sorry I didn’t understand.
But what is your problem then?

Can you explain a little what is „wet and dry“, my mother language is french!

Thanks a lot


…sorry Mikkke, I have erased those pictures from my camera files.

OK, we could check then your work togheter step after step.

1- Plate screws.

These are two screws with which you fix the manifold base to the cranckcase.
First thing to do is:
take the plate on your hand and put the screws in the holes. when they are fully on their position check if their head are flat with the base. Probably not. It will came out 5mm of the screws head. For the one in the front position (the position closer to the cilinder) there is no problem, you can leave it the way it is. But check to be sure. Put the manifold on its plate to check the way it sits flat and if the screw heads are disturbing it to get in its proper position.
But the one on the back (in the position closer to the rear shock) has to be perfectly flat or recessed in its position if not the manifold will never sit flat on its base.
So if this screw head is few mm out of its sits, you should work with a dremmel the screw sit recess in a way that you lower it sufficiently to make the screw go more down in its recess.

First you do this, then tell me what you have, or if you already have done it, and then we will pass to the next step.

If it is not clear ask again.


If it’s got tit’s or tyre’s there’s trouble ahead.Malossi 1




Does that help?