Reeds and Carbs


I have just added some pictures of reeds and carbs so who is interested could look at the differences. Expecially of interest the angle of the different reed blocks and shapes.

Someone could tell me how come the first three or four pictures are smaller and can’t be enlarged when you click on, while the others yes?
As far as I understood (I have a real mediocre level with computer) it is a question of setting in the photo sending. I have tried to change the setting but nothing to do.
Thannk you in advance.


I added on my :

It’s as easy as this and so true, Amen!

hello Mikke,

No, I am not sure, so in this case I should check the setting in my dig camera? I will try to find it, but I can’tmfind anything in the menu of the camera that specify immage size, just immage resize, but I changed it but nothing happen. Any other idea?
Thank you

  • Which camera is it exactly?
  • The size of the picture is in „dot per inches“ dpi. The more dot or point you have the bigger the picture will be.
  • It depends also on some cam from the „zoom“ if you take the picture nearer it’s small if you take the picture from a longer distance it’s wider.

Hope it helps if not we’ll investigate longer!!


hello postman,

where not specified, as for the modified PX 200 heads, or for reed makers, it is my work. So the engincases work you saw it is made by myself. The PX 177 polini scooter is my work too.
I do T5 casing too.

I did my address

to show some comparative picture between products I have worked with and some work that I do.
So it could be used as comparative or just for curiosity.

Thank you for your appreciation. I recognize I work well but any good professional scooter tuner will be able to do this job
more or less on the same level. (don’t have to be michelangelo to do this kind of work!)

What is difficult is:
to understand what you want, at what point it is possible to achieve it, and the compromise we have to accept do get close to it.
The rest it is more or less OK.

I will try to costantly update my address whenever
I have something I think could be interesting.

hello postman,

thanks a lot for considering my work.
I am Italian but I live in Switzerland for the moment, (I am planing to moove). I work on Scooter engines in a center in Geneva and on moto engines for another shop.

The thing is that here labor for hour cost is so high in comparison to the rest of europe (even though tax 7,6%) that I am working only with local customers.
Just to give you an idea :
the owner of the scooter center where I tune the engines bought a PX200 christmas three from SIP since he relised he would have paid more if he would have bought it from the official switzerland Piaggio distributor! So you can immagine !
So this means that for the same work the price would not be competitive with the rest of europe.

But I will be happy to help you out on my limit of knowledge and experience if you have any questions, expecially in this period that I have a lot of spare time since last week I had knee surgery.

What I can say about the list that you have is:

If you want to modify the barrell porting you will get more power but this power will be at higher rev and will loose at low and for two - riding it is not really what you need. (compromise)

If the inlet port has been well modified to accept the malossi reed
the modification of crankshaft (lip) will give you a little more, again at highish rev, but considering the cost…
I think in your case (if the case porting job has been correctly done) the thing will be of making it works at its best.
You could with a less invasive job and for less money profit of the better performance of a Keihin or a Mikuni carb.

You can make this thing go fast, but forget longer gear ratio. You will have to make the engine scream, squishing the gears all the way… if it is this that you want…
We have not just consider max power or have a look at a dyno graph. If you get more power it doesn’t mean you will like the way your engine feels. You could hate it even if it goes faster.

…hello jason,

just wrote a 15min. answer and all got lost in the sky before


try to write the answer again later…[:@] [:@] [:@]

thanks…the knee surgery reabilitation is well.

hello Jason,

for the carb I would use the 30mm better if you use a Mikuni TMX 30 or a pattern keihin PWK30. between the two: the keihin will give you better high end, it is much smaller in size but its set up is more wheater and temperature sensitive. If you go for the Mikuni you with malossi block you have to use a spacer (made by Worb5 and in SIP catalogue ). And also a alu manifold instead of the original Malossi rub.
The Keihin you fits in no problem a part the tricky slippery tendency of the rubber malossi manifold that with a little experience at the end you will solve. The keihin doesn’t make a 30 they make a 28 but you can by a pattern mod which design is based on it and uses the same jet, slide etc.
So between the two the choice is yours.

Then if you can invest more money you shoul change the reed block. You can get an MRB or a MMW and use it (after modification, they need to be enlarged) with a tassinari reed block.
This combination will give you a better power curve. You will gain on mid- low range mid range and mid - high range somewhere around 10% to 15%.

Yes you have to use a fuel pump.

As far as power a torque concern I can’t be precise since not saved dyno graphs, but if I remember well with malossi reed and dell’orto carb 30 set up you should be around 21hp. (ported cases etc.)

… I really can’t believe it,

after rewriting again the answer and publishing it, the system has published also the first lost answer .

Sorry… you will read more or less the same thing twice.

This must be a sort of electronic woodoo…

Hello Curare, are you sure the pictures have the same size when you send it?

hi curare
long time no speak
finally decided to sell my lammy and do my mk1 t5
so i’m looking for some info
engine looks the dogs bollexs
the porting of the casing is very impressive

who did this work for you and where are they please
do they do t5 casings as well by any chance


where abouts are uk or abroad
how much would you cherge for the tuning below as i’ve already got some tuning work done on the casings for a reed vavle this was done when i got the engine but by whom i don’t know
looking for

fast road tune being able to pulls 2’s up easily
got the following
new fat muffler mikeck
30mm dellorto
mallosi reedvalve
malossi 172 kit modified head

looking to have done
more porting to kit if poss
casings ported and flowed
crank modified for reed kit and checked

running 21t gear kit


Does the mikuni tmx 30 with a mmw 1 or 2 which one is best and will the carb and reed block fit with out cutting the frame on a p200e  thank you Jeff

hello Mikke,

my photo problem solved. I just reset all the camera and it made the photo as before. Thank you anyway for your help.

I have already posted for your jetting.

thanks for the info
i totally under stand what your saying
a couple of questions

squishing the gears = reving the engine hard yes

which carb would you suggest and what size eg sticking with a 30mm or bigger and using more fuel but getting better performance

i’m looking at enlarging the tank possibly and a fuel pump if thats recommended

what sort of bhp and torque do you think i’d get with a good set up

thanks in advance

and i hope the surgury helps you to healing quicker nothing to bad i hope


… ok I am calmed down, write all things again,

as far as the carb size: 30 is a good size for your need.
Mikuni and Keihin are better then PHBH dell’orto. More of everything. No way back choice.
Between the Mikuni TMX30 and Keihin PWK pattern (pattern since keihin doesn’t make a 30 but a 28 or 33. A good Keihin pattern uses jets, slides etc of PWK2[H]
I was sayind the difference between the two:
Keihin sligtly more top end power and reaction but less full at low and mid-low and it is much smaller in size than the Mikuni and smaller then PHBH dell’orto.
The Keihin is more set up and more wheater and temperature sensitive then Mikuni. It can fit in the malossi block with no modification.
To fit the mikuni you have to buy a spacer for malossi reed block made by worb5 and in SIP catalogue. And replace the rubber manifold with a metal one. (just for space reason since the carb out diam. is ok.)

Yes you need a fuel pump. Especially if you use a bigger tank or use the bigger reed block MRB or MMW that will make the carb sits higher then the malossi reed block. But even with the malossi sometimes you could esperience on low tank fuel starvation.

If you want everything and have saved money you have to change the reed block and go for a MRB or a MMW with tassinari reed. The MRB or the MMW manifold have to be enlarged and modified to fit the tassinari reed.
You will gain about 10%- 15% in the rpm range from low-mid up to high-mid. It means better power curve, better drive, and more responsiveness.

As far as hp and torque figures in the basic malossi reed with 30 dell’orto with ported cases and inlet port I don’t remember well since don’t have the last dyno curve I made with this set up. And was one year and half ago. But you should be around 21 hp.

If somebody in this board had his malossi T5 with similar set up dynoed recently maybe could be more precise.