So what would you all recommend, exhaust-wise, for a standard PX200?
Cheers
Jim
hello,
yes, with the large left hand expansions you can say good-bye to your spare wheel standard placement.
Only PM and Taffspeed exhausts can be mounted with spare tire but need same spacers on the spare.
The Simonini is a good compromise. Don’t be seduced by the chrome version. It may last longer but it doesn’t dissipate the heat as well as the black. Your engine will run hotter. It is not a good idea.
As far as maffler available for Simonini exhaust it is nice the carbon one but it doesn’t last as long as the standard.
[:roll:]
curare,
have you tested the px125 exhuasts yet?? i’m just curious about the malossi’s favorite? RZ?
hello,
I am of the same advice that adriannewhamm. Simonini is a good choice and it doesn’t cost a lot of money.
It make sense with a standard set up.
But if you are planning to have same more serious tuning in the near future, you should consider the RZ exhausts, either the right hand or the 2000 left hand. I have never tried better exhausts with Malossi or Polini kit for PX 200. And my dyno confirms it!
[:roll:]
… but this is about the exhausts that I know.
Stubbsy is found of Scootrs exhaust , and somebody else in this forum reported some very good things about beerace handmade.
Sorry I don’t know this either. They could be better than the ones that I know.
… sorry
I don’t know what happened with the page of my last reply.
[?[]
Ozzy
Before you do that, get a decent front end!!!
3.00 tyre!!!;D ;D ;D
curare,
by ‚heart shaped‘ do you mean like a gothic port? wide at the top with a sloped bit in the middle to ease the piston ring back in so it doesn’t catch? or do you just mean wider at the top?
i’m already running a t5 flywheel, it’s quicker than standard, i’m looking get a hp4, what do you think of them? a bit to light?
i’ve been think along the lines of getting a long stroke crank, do worb5 do a full cricle one?
ozzy
slindingdog,
[:)] you have a point!!! possibly some brakes wouldn’t go a miss as well [:)][:drink:]
upjet 2 or 3 main jets over stock(as a guide, your engine may want more) and retard the timing 1-2 degrees to get the best from your motor.
hello breezer,
the problem to test exhaust on a standard px200 is that everybody I know don’t have standard engines!
but maybe next week we have to do something on a standard px 200.
have a look at
vintagescooters.free.fr/tuning/test_pot-px125/
it is a test on px125 but will give you an idea.
It is more critical the combination with tuned engines.
For me go Simonini if you don’t want to spend too much.
If you can afford buy a PM.(better than simonini but much more expensive)
This two if you keep standard barrel.
If you think to go kit buy one of RZ.
[:roll:]
hello Ozzy,
the most difficult thing in tuning is not just a question of getting the eghiest power figures but to put this in a drivable and reliable way.
So it is a question of trial and error. You start modifiying the barrel, you have different port timing, you have to modifiy the expansion if you want to do it the best way.
The story of your expirience remaind me when, 20 years ago, I wanted to get more power from my Hiro (cross) engine. Widened, opened etc the barrel and nothing on low, medium low, medium and then brutally all the power came. Yes I had more power but not very usable.
The most difficult thing is this compromise. Knowing when to stop.
And this anly experience can tell you. It is not possible to say it here, also because you would not know what is the last hp you can get out from your kit and still be able to drive it well.
Malossi kit is already fairly sport ported, if you really want you should open more the barrel transfer port (for the engine case)
and weldind and opening more the cases. And as you did alter the exhaust port and the boost port
But I personally would not do it.
Your Malossi with (Malossi reed and 30) should give you around 19 hp (mutched cases etc) with a good exhaust.
In my dyno test the most powerful exhaust for your kit came out to be the Taffspeed, but globally the best came out to be the RZ 2000 left hand. (power curve).
If you want to have more power go longstroke(worb 5), base 1.5mm gasket. (gearing 21/65). PK flywheel or HP4. You will reach about 21hp rear.
Maybe you would like like it.
But it is not going to be as mounting a water cooled barrel.
In most of the competition now you see this kind of tuning.
[:rolleyes:]
hello Stubbsy,
as far as concern the dyno test it is going to take at least a week.
We are trying RZ, PM, Simonini, Polini, SIP, on Polini Pinasco Malossi kits for px125 and 200 and we are waiting 1 vespa T5 with Malossi kit. It is some work !!
Up to now what I can tell is that RZ right and left hand and SIP Perf. are more similar than different. Yes there are differences in the power curve but these differences are not so significative to
influence to buy one or the other. PM less power than RZ and SIP, but slightly better on medium rpm. RZ left slighly better with Malossi kit than Polini, Polini likes a little better RZ right.
Simonini better then these up to 5000 then looses.
Tomorrow is the turn of Taffspeed then will start with the PX125 kits
It is fun!!
Are you sponsored by Scootrs? [:D] ( joking)
hello Ozzy,
heart or trident yes it is more like a gothic,
regard flywheel, HP4 is the way you have to go if in searching of the last hp. But your engine will heat more. But an engine like the one you want to do is not going to rev high for long period of time since is not a touring affaire.
Buy a spare plastic fan since they tend to break.
As far as concern the cranckshaft I don’t advice to use a full circle,
if you want to have more compression get an HPC that is a full circle only on the flywheel side, but I have reported in some engine a problem on the flywheel bearing, it tends to use more, I have to investigate more on this maybe a lack of adequate lubrification with this kind of cranckshaft.
The best longstroke cranckshaft I used are the Worb5 speciallip for reed. They are very well balanced.
Then if you want to get the last drop out without a crazy tuning job, you have to change carb.
I compared dell’orto VHSA , VHSB, Mikuni TMX and Keihin PWK.
I prefer keihin PWK.
They don’t make a 30. If you want a 30 you have to buy a Keihin PWK pattern that you can buy from Scootrs (I saw in the net) or from CPW. They use the same part and jet that Keihin PWK28.
If you buy this carb remember that the setting is going to be far from the standard setting the carb generally is sold.
It is very small and you can use with malossi reed and manifold no problem.
Exaust I already told you my choices, gearing 21/65.
[:roll:]
Fair point, p2’s do tend to get fettled, I’m just not confident enough yet to risk my reliability. Simonnini does seem to be a name that crops up a lot though, and with it being chromed it should last longer than a sito plus. Not sure about the RHS fitment though, seems a little low to the ground.
that said, I’m not sure about the large LHS pipes, which either force you to carry a spare wheel elsewhere or leave the pipe very close your spare tyre, and the panel a tight fit.
Compromises compromises, why can’t life be easy?
Cheers
Jim
hello Ozzy,
the most difficult thing in tuning is not just a question of getting the eghiest power figures but to put this in a drivable and reliable way.
So it is a question of trial and error. You start modifiying the barrel, you have different port timing, you have to modifiy the expansion if you want to do it the best way.
The story of your expirience remaind me when, 20 years ago, I wanted to get more power from my Hiro (cross) engine. Widened, opened etc the barrel and nothing on low, medium low, medium and then brutally all the power came. Yes I had more power but not very usable.
The most difficult thing is this compromise. Knowing when to stop.
And this anly experience can tell you. It is not possible to say it here, also because you would not know what is the last hp you can get out from your kit and still be able to drive it well.
Malossi kit is already fairly sport ported, if you really want you should open more the barrel transfer port (for the engine case) and weldind and opening more the cases. And as you did alter the exhaust port and the boost port
But I personally would not do it.
Your Malossi with (Malossi reed and 30) should give you around 19 hp (mutched cases etc) with a good exhaust.
In my dyno test the most powerful exhaust for your kit came out to be the Taffspeed, but globally the best came out to be the RZ 2000 left hand. (power curve).
If you want to have more power go longstroke(worb 5), base 1.5mm gasket. (gearing 21/65). PK flywheel or HP4. You will reach about 21hp rear.
Maybe you would like like it.
But it is not going to be as mounting a water cooled barrel.
In most of the competition now you see this kind of tuning.
[:rolleyes:]
…for Ozzy,
and after going longstroke with base gasket consider altering the barrel porting.
I think this is the easiest way.
Barrel porting is difficult, it is not just a question of timing but also of shape. If you want to experience go for it, if not take the engine to an experienced tuner. They should know where to stop.
As far as regard shaping the exhaust port everybody has his favourite. I like an heart shape or trident, I don’t know how to describe with words. Some tuner use this shape in small RC engines that rev incredibly high.
[:rotate:]
I would recommend a Simonini as an improvement over standard, cheap, look ok and sound nice, offering a slight improvement on power but not excessive.
scoot rs for the pm look and good performance. £83 for a simmo, £77 for a scoot rs plus post. £100. check the web site out . hey curare any word on the dyno tests yet[:D]
Any chance of a dyno test on a standard px200?
Jim