this is just a super quick reply to say that i appreciate the direction youve suggested as its really different to what i had in mind --> ie, port matching a malossi kit, but may have to seriously consider this cdi thing.Its also excellent advice on the jets, and sound stuff for pre mix as well.
im totally prepared to replace most of the c class in the engine if i were to split the cases(thanks for telling me where the restricter plate is)wouldnt go so far as the gears unless they were totally poked, i have a t5 4th gear to drop in.
im really impressed you undertook a rebuild of your stator and even more impressed you decided to weld a pipe up yourself... brilliant!
havnt had the time to play with the scoot this week but im hoping to have a go this weekend
have a good one
ill post back once ive given bits a wobble and a clean
lmao .. kinda went off there. any way the restriction plate is located between the carb and the case.. thin piece of stainless that restricts air into cylinder it may even be the gasket itself so i suggest buying a carb. gasket kit first.... you had mentioned you are good on a lathe, you might experiment with a riser between the carb and case,got a buddy with a T5 that made a riser and produced good numbers and a nice sound, due to more air in mix.****NOTE**** this will make the oil pump and tank obsolete so you will have to premix gas and oil.. as far as jet combo for what your running i might suggest this.. what worked for me.. 90 . 92 . 98. 102. 106. these five will set well in a 24er carb and run great, after any upgrades swap out starting low #'s and go up, adjusting air fuel mix according to rev meter if you have one, if you don't have a rev counter then i would suggest : a professional tune up : take all the jet tips and ask him, or her, to get highest rev possible. will usually bog down at about 6k with above mentioned vespatronic kit should get above 7k.. cheers
just a quick note after re-reading your post .. the crank should be fine its "bullet proof"
put it in neutral rand raise the rear end spin the back wheel does it "wobble"
if it doesn't thats good. listen also for any squeeks as may need a new oil seal on back hub. and the brakes .... always service and replace pads on any used scooter...
just a few "older shots" of my 150 its my daily driver like i said it will do 110, 115 all day and ride wheelies down the block and back. this scoot is kinda of a experimental thing. i push it till it breaks, then transfer the info into my px 200. any way this is the pipe i made for all of about 35 bucks "not including the chrome" which is now been reworked, fitted smaller "race"="loud" silencer. lots of chome lightened it up alot, lost the battery all the extras,IE stripped but these picts from like a year ago will post some new ones to see the difference
just wondering if you tooled around with yours any more... kinda got me interested in your scoot hope it all turns out for ya.. need any hints, advice, or tuning tips drop me a line [email protected]..
more pics at my myspace photos, Vespa project www.myspace.com/mvpcrow
one final note. as i can get 110 all day on my 150cc.. with no major upgrades.. i hand made my own exhaust and am running bigger jets on standard carb. other than that the only tweaking i've done is a overhaul on my electrical.. getting more bang for the buck you might say.. i swapped out my original stator with a custom one. i live in a kind of remote area so comming up on parts is a rarity. and im not a rich guy so my technical expertise allows me to "frankenstien" parts im currently running a 12v 80w system and have a
"splitfire" plug. an oversize plugwire and "sport-tuner" air filter im running race oil and 95 octane gas, other than that the clutch is the only other "upgrade" got a px 200 clutch .. this last one is a tricky bastered to accomplish and would not suggest it. but this is all on a px 150 e millinium. a "moot" point since you have a 200 any way... my point in all this is if your going to split your motor just to put a piston and crank... be aware that once opened you may find you need ... new bearings, new seals, new gears, new gaskets, new kick start gear, your going to want to clean and polish all parts and and and and and.... again my point i...
the real difference between a 200 and 210 cc piston is about 200 to 300 dollars and a whole 1 mph. adding a crank for thee to five hundred dollars will net you about " low end " 3 lbs torque and "top end" 3 mph
sorry for rambling but wanted to let you know.. unless your competitively racing these gains are unnoticeable and can only be seen in the tenths of seconds on a 1/8th mile
may i suggest... for your money... to get realworld gains... get a vespatronic kit and install it and see impoved revs due to lighter flywheel, impoved acceleration, and better fuel burn, brighter lights and louder horn.
just under 400 bucks. and i promise you'll get the same results as a new piston and crank at half the price and.... its ready for future upgrade if your budget allows
all this with out opening the motor.. happy trails mate..
hey hutch, most of these guys are real hard core racers and such or just speaking german or something, not many "front yard mechanics" first things first... your budget. as a rebuild can get quite expensive. also what exactly are you tring to get out of your scoot. power, reliability, looks, daily driver, chic magnet...... etc etc
my advise " as a px 200, and px 150 owner" is to stick with your current piston setup " as the 200cc has lots of power and can deliver a great lifetime of riding. if you had a 150 i might suggest a dr 177 or 166 piston type upgrade as the 150 cant do what the 200 can.. but you got the 200 that will pull wheelies all day and if your on a "restriction plate" top speed don't matter...
my first suggestion is to make sure your "used exhaust" is not leaking, if it is repair it. second fuel lines and jets clean them. to have a running scoot and upgrade it is better than trying to bump up one thats trash..
i might suggest taking the head off the cylinder and give the piston top end a once over. cost = time,new head gasket and some carb cleaner, NOTE make sure to get a new head gasket first as on old scoots. this is probably toast .... about 20 bucks
new clutch plates is a perfect start. about 20 to 35 bucks. for new clutch plates maybe cheaper!
electronics can be a bitch. so if your not into it, get that scoot to a shop and test the stator and coil. if its an E-start model have the battery and starter motor serviced. should be like 30 to 35 buck
listen, i know your offer for advice wasn't directed at me, but i have some questions nonetheless. no-one on this forum sems to be very helpful to a newbee, but you seem like you would take some time to help a man out. i have some questions regarding your carb modification, is a carb upgrade worthwhile? it seems to be more of a hassle than anything else. you said your carb is up-jetted and otherwise standard.. that air filter you have on there looks like it will make the whole thing breathe alot easier, does this mean you removed the original airfilter inside the carb casing, or are you running them both..?? also i have ordered the sip left hand performance exhaust (jl) and i have no idea, what jetting entails exactly and which jets to run with the exhaust once it gets here.. many thanks and kind regards, wesley