MMW2 reedvalve

Has anyone fitted this to a T5.? It fits on a PX200 inlet but on the T5 it looks like some welding and recutting is needed. No mention of this on the SIP catologue or with the reedvalve.

How do I view them?

Hi Mark how much did you cut your crank. Usualy been loping a fair amount of them with good results but was thinking maybe not so much needed to come of because of the size and shape of the inlet. Curare any thoughts?

Yes thanks guys. Not sure what im gona do with the crank now because the inlet is larger than I would normally do for T5 with the MMK. As Mark says if the crank can be left standard alls the better because of balance and crankcase compression. Going to see what a std crank looks like when the inlets done. Another thing that can be done is too put a big chamfer on the inside web(easy done on a lathe).
Like your inlet though Mark- I know how long it takes to do it like that!

Hi diablo, i bought a MMW for my T5 last year thinking that it would go straight on as it says in its desciption. But the T5 in let area is a lot smaller than a P2 and has alot less metal around it. It is lucky that they do ally welding were I work. The area around the inlet hole has to be built up and the inlet hole ground out to suit. Having said all that the work only took less than an hour to do and will bring big improvments. It is indeed a nice bit of kit. I bought mine with the tassi g-force reed cage. I will try to get some pics posted on the forumpic site the week end.


What kind of increase in performance can be expected when fitting the MMW2 reedvalve?.
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Click on Forumpics in „scene“ on the menu.They were on page 2 when I looked,author Mark Christie.I would have pasted them up but they’re huge.[:D]

Itìs nice to hear you again Curare.
Where have you been?

Hi diablo, iv’e always opened up the crank case webs and removed the seeling pad. this is preferd instead of machining the crank side, as removing metal can upsett the balance of the crank. Also you do not need to cut back any metal on the inlet timing part of the crank as the reed will open and close as and when the engine requires fuel throu engine vacuum. Malossi recomend only removing ally from the cases and they show you this in the little booklet you get with their reed kit. I’ll try to put some pics on the forumpic site today.


Juan I know I’m stupid but which menu?

On the left of your screen viewing this page,it goes like this.

Extended search
User area
Place order


Bulletin board
Scooter Market german

Cheers Mark,I missed that bit.[:look:]

If it’s got tit’s or tyre’s there’s trouble ahead.

Yeah I used to do it this way as well and then Harry Barlow done a crank for me and it totally changed the bike. I know what your saying about crank balance but this was turbine smooth with hardly any vibration. You do loose some crankcase compresion. Be interested to see how you’ve done your inlet. Just started working on a customers today using the mmk block. It really is a nice bit of kit!

Hi diablo, if Harry says its ok than it must be ok. When it comes to such matters then he realy is the best and i know he has a soft spot for the T5. It used to be the way midland scooters did them but I heard horror stories about them. I put some pics on the forumpiscs last night.

Thanks Mark. Was quite surprised SIP make no mention of the welding involved. Does look a nice bit of kit though.


yes, some crankcases have the inlet port area shorter and you can’t fit this manifold unless you do some welding or you could make a metallic gasket at the base of the MMW2 to make the inlet port smaler.

As far as performance concern don’t expect the same difference the look and size make you think. And also to fit a Tassinari reed block you have to do same dremel work to fit it, and cut a small part at the top.

Hi chaps sorry about the size of the pics, I shunk them down to less than 200kb but not the frame size. If you click on the orange writing to the right of the pic they seem to be a better size.