Jetting and carb set up

I have a Stella with a DR177 kit, Del’orto 24g, and a Pinasco pipe.
Any suggestions on Idle jet, main jet, air, and mixer? I am at approx. 500-800 feet above sea level. Thanks in advance.

do not change the timing. the DR timing is 20 degree same as the stella stock. go to stellaspeed.com there are pleany of guys there who have this same setup and are in similiar altitudes.

hello,

iddle jet is ok the standard you have with the 24g and the mixer should be ok too.
Main jet Start with a 115 and get a spare 112.
Spark you should use a 8 grade if you get a NGK or a 4 grade if you get a Bosch.
Timing: 18
If you advance more sizing will be waiting for you at the first long open trottle.

ok apologies to everyone first.
now leave the timing as it is for now but check that the timing marks line up using a strobe if youve got one available, if not beg steal or borrow one. clean your filter and put the 120 main jet in.
clean and gap the spark plug around .5mm or 20 thou is what youre looking at and make sure that its at least an 8 grade ngk.
visually inspect the motor to make sure youve got no leaks on the cylinder base and head and the carb is fixed down tight. the rest of the jets should be ok. points to notice- if its got the new style seat make sure that when you sit on it the foam is not squeezed through the hole in the base and coming into contact with the filler cap as this will block the vent causing fuel starvation and hence weak running.take the scoot out for a quiet jaunt to warm it up then go in search of a nice open straight, cane the arse off the scoot up to full throttle in 4th and then switch the ignition off making sure that the throttle is wide open at the time.coast to a stop then remove the spark plug and check the colour, if its a dark brown then its too rich so you need to come down on the main jet size. if its very light then its the opposite and its too weak so you will want to come up on the main jet, youre aiming for a nice light chocolate brown colour.
if after setting the main jet you find that the bike is pinking (this sounds like a tin of nails being rattled) usually at high speeds on low throttle openings then you might want to richen up the pilot jet or the mixer tube and air corrector jet. this is also the time to start looking at the timing. you should start by moving the stator plate clockwise in small increments, running the scoot each time to see if it improves or gets worse. if you have any problems email me direct and i will give you my phone number to give me a call.
as a note on tuned kits, always use the best oil you can afford and if possible stick to super unleaded fuel
as a starting point for pilot jet try 55/100
use a be3 mixer tube
a 160/100 air corrector jet
it wouldnt hurt to drill the petrol cap vent out slightly as well[:D]

Thank you guys, sorry to stir up any debates but all good advice. I’ll have some time this weekend to do the suggested tips. I’ll keep you posted.
Again thanks.

I would always check the timing, even on a bike straight from the factory, to find the optimum setting that the engine wants. Even more so for a kitted engine. Regardless what manufacturers recommend, a Dyno or Strobe will give the best setting for your engine, every engine will vary, same as your location will cause differences, and the humidity of the area you live.

Original von gp200ts1: what can i say? you're a bloody hero! 23 years i've been building scooters and so i know better. a dyno will not tell you what degrees your motor is firing at and neither will a strobe. you need to know in degrees or mm of piston travel and set it from there. the dyno still wont tell you if its firing where it should wheras a strobe can tell you if its firing on its timing marks. i would have thought that all the time you have spent building engines you would have learnt these basics[:D]

Again you have a pop at me but offer the guy no advice. All I have done is try to help. What have you suggested with your superior experience? I told him how to change the timing and suggested jetting, then suggested he had it checked on a dyno IS THAT BAD ADVICE? Yes a Dyno won’t tell you what degrees the timing is at, but a good dyno operator will alter the settings on jetting and timing to find the best base settings for the bike, most can even programme in sea levels and region and the riding style of the owner. If all you can offer is negative comments stop wasting people’s time.

Your idle, air & others should be ok, you should only need to change the main jet to start with. Try a 116 to a 120 mainjet range, retard the timing as far as the slots will allow, if that is too much then move the stator back 1 degree at a time (or ideally get the timing set with a strobe).

The guy has put a 180kit, big carb & sports pipe on a 125/150. Just changing the pipe would warrant checking the timing, yes using a dyno to set timing on a factory bike is over the top, but on a fully kitted motor not really, it is worth it for peace of mind. But what do I know? I’ve only been building bikes for 19 years. As for factory timing settings, they are set for the most general purpose use and ease of mass production, usually in the country of manufacture, so when the bike gets shipped half way round the world the factory settings may not be what the engine will need, each engine will be different as well. What would you suggest gp200ts1?

Thats better some good advice from gp200ts1 you say drill out the petrol breather on the cap by how much thanks Gary

no more than 1/8 th of an inch ( 3mm for all you metric types out there). sometimes it blocks up due to its small size so its just to be on the safe side with a tuned engine

what can i say?
you’re a bloody hero!
23 years i’ve been building scooters and so i know better. a dyno will not tell you what degrees your motor is firing at and neither will a strobe. you need to know in degrees or mm of piston travel and set it from there. the dyno still wont tell you if its firing where it should wheras a strobe can tell you if its firing on its timing marks.
i would have thought that all the time you have spent building engines you would have learnt these basics[:D]

ok gp200ts1 lets hear your advice in stead of slagging other people that offer advice come on then help the man with his jetting problem after all you have 23 Years of building bikes so f…ng what

a DR is basiclly a big bore top end- yes a little more power but the porting isnt agressive as a polini or malossi or pinasco- its as reliable as stock- with that pipe and carb at your alt try a 160,BE3, and a 126. better to start rich and lean up. im running a pinasco on my stella and a simonini and a vortex 28mm. my main jet is a 116 and its still a little rich. but its better rich on a new top end than lean.

Also listen to the engine- it’ll tell you when its happy- if it revs to a point then kinda gets boggy and burbles is rich. the idea is to raise that burble to the top of the RPM range-
might be a good idea to check you timing. but it should be at 20 degrees. the LML ignition auto retards at higher RPM. good luck

Thats better some good advice from gp200ts1 you say drill out the petrol breather on the cap by how much thanks Gary

how will a strobe tell you what the best timing is for your scoot?
all the strobe will do is tell you what point it is firing at, you will still have to work out what the timing is in degrees depending on whether its before or after the set timing marks.
stop talking bollocks and help the guy not confuse him. if the manufacturer specifies a timing then you generally it is somewhere around what they say. using a dyno just to set your timing is a bit over the top especially for those who have to travel over 100 miles just to get to a SCOOTER dealer with a dyno. maybe there are bike dealers with dynos closer but they generally havent got a clue with 2 strokes let alone scooters[:D]

Lets be civil to each other chaps - This is a good forum with lots of good advice. If someone doesn’t agree with someone else’s advice spell it out and offer alternatives rather than belittle each other - this is much more helpful!