Ignition question please help! PX200 Millenium stock standard

Ok so I had a problem with the ignition. The scooter would go for a klm or 2 and then stop. I thought it was a fuel problem, so I cleaned the carb bowl, jets and fuel filter. The scooter went well for 2 or 3 days and then the problem started again. Ride 1 or 2 klms and then the scooter would stop. I cleaned the carb again and this time it did not work as before.

I could ride 1 km and then the scooter would stop. I would then wait 2 or 3 min and kick start and it would go 500 meters and stop again.

I changed the cdi unit, the problem continued.

I changed the pickup unit, on the stator, and the problem continued.

The bike went a lot better for 1 or 2 klm and then the scooter stopped as before. I waited 2 or 3 min and kick started it. It went 500 or 600 meters and then stopped. 

The decompression that activates when starting with the starter is used (clutch pulled in) cannot be deactivated.

That is when I try to kick start the kick starter has no resistance. The flywheel still has resistance.

I can start the engine with a fully charged battery. If the revs drop below a quarter throttle the engine dies. The clutch will engage 1st, however when the clutch is released  the bike won't move. 

Any ideas as to what the problem might be.

Mate, its a deal ! I have got family in Melbourne , friends in Brisbane and our scooter club has got a branch ( which is much better than our originals to be honest [:$] ) in Perth. If I tag them altogether I'll have a very decent holiday planned . . . . . . . . . . . . all thats left is a Lotto win ! [;)]

Take it easy fella,

Steve

To me it sounds like you have two separate problems, 1 being a sticking clutch and 2 being either a dying Spark Plug/Lead /cap or a dying LT coil on the stator. the electrical issues sound like something is dying under stress or heat.

The white bound coil is the LT coil.

Piaggio and their dealers routinely retard the timing to help cut down on warranty claims, reset the timing to A. the only way to be 110% sure is by using a timing device but for standard machines the marks on the casing and stator plate are just fine. 91 octane fuel is fine.

If there is oil behind the stator there are very few places it could have come from; the most likely being the crank seal. It may be leaking at high revs or possibley the inner rim has been dry and its spun with the crank at some point. You can check the seal of the blanking disc, ( about 10mm diameter at 7 o'clock behind the stator. Check the base on the cylinder stud threaded holes in the stator bay. If not these it may be that there is a cylinder base , carb box or exhaust leak that is finding its way behind the stator when moving ie getting blown in. BUT it WILL have come from somewhere so continue to check until you are sure its sorted.

For the clutch issue , first I would check the gear oil level and whether there is any trace of petrol in the oil.It may be that it simply needs a road trip to get it all warmed and re-coated with oil etc. Next step is to remove the clutch and strip it, change all the parts that show any wear ( cork plates, brass shim etc) and reinstall. A new clutch shouldn't be necessary but if thats how you choose to go about the repair it'll certainly do the job. Overkill and expensive but I guess still effective.

All the service or replacement parts you need are available in the SiP webshop.

Thanks so much for this advice Hamer. Let me know when you're down Sydney way and I'll brew you up a cup of tea.

Cheers Alex.

I removed the stator and inspected it. There is oil inside the bunch of wires leading into the stator. I checked the oil seal, flywheel side and it wasn't leaking. The oil found its way to the white bound coil. Is this white bound coil the LT coil. This is the coil that is different from all the other coils on the stator. I will replace the whole stator, I am now sure this is the problem. Also the stator was set between the A and IT marks, the bike has only ever been serviced at the original dealer. Is the timing retarded during running in? Are the marks (A and IT) only guides and a timing device the sure way to set timing? I have been running the bike on 91 octane fuel.

 

With regards to the clutch issue. Is there any simple fix to get the bike going or do I need to replace/ renew the clutch? If I replace the whole clutch unit will this fix the problem?