Just purchased a GRIMECA classic disc break kit from SIP, which came with no fitting instructions, managed to assemble ok and without too much trouble. The only thing is it does not seem to work as well as I think it should, I do not know if there is any fine adjustments to make: I have bled the system, and you can feel the pads gripping the disc but it is not very effective. This is with pulling the brake lever all the way back to the bars, or is it just a case of waiting for the pads to bed in???
Is there anywhere i can get any information from about the kit, and how it all works? There used to be a download on this site, but cannot find it anymore.[:rolleyes:]

I must agree with vespadoc just done a lammy, and thought I bled the brakes but the lever would touch the grip if pulled hard.
redid it, now you only have to pull in a couple of mm and it starts to bite,see if anyone can give a hand or get a proper bleed pipe.
or some cars have a nonreturn valve in the screenwasher pipe just use it on an old pipe.
good luck [H]

Hello to you the Doctor
yes it’s a cable one, and i think will have a play with them again!!! [?[]

merry xmas richie! not sure if this is the same in your case but some manufacturers spray a waxy/silicon type coating on brake discs to stop them rusting whilst in storage prior to use which will definately decrease the braking.i know its a pain in the arse but best way round it is remove the disc scrub it with petrol or paint thinner and scuff it all round with a 180 grit abrasive all over to clear the the same on the faces of the pads as well and if it dont flip you over the headset when you brake summut aint right.i presume its fully hydraulic and not semi cable operated? coz the cable ones arent as good .happy brakin’

stroud valleys(midnight hour)sc est 1984

if my memory serves me well the inner cable of the brake switch type cable has a nylon sleeve over it to stop the contact between it and the outer(bit new for me prefer the „old“ px’s)which is cut back where the inner protrudes from the outer so the cable clamp can grip shouldnt be a problem to cut the cable down as long as you cut the nylon to the same length as it would be on the standard length otherwise the inner makes a permanent contact with the outer which will continues the brake light circuit so the brake light will be permanently on.i havent played with one of these cables for some years so the old memory is a bit vague

stroud valleys(midnight hour)sc est 1984

just re-bleed the brake and it seems a lot better but i think it still needs to bed in, also the cable is too long with the brake switch in, should i cut it down or is it ok a bit long!!!
thanks Richie

i know you said you bled the system through richie but always double check and only takes a small bubble of air to loose up to 65% braking efficiency.brakes are a fine mechanism that need lots of checkin and recheckin,good luck with it mate

stroud valleys(midnight hour)sc est 1984