Fitting disc brake hose problems!

Hi All,

I am trying to fit the hose for my disc brake but I cannot seem to feed it through the steering column. Is the banjo or nipple suppose to come off the hose in order to feed it through cos I canny get them off…what toll should I use as I don’t want to damage the hose cos it cost me 80 bucks.




I just can’t get it to fit through

I’ll need to take it to a dealer and they will probably charge 80 bucks for the pleasure.


Hello boys i`m back from holiday and eager to help.

Brian, you will not fit the brake hose through the forks with the banjo fitting on it, this is how I do mine (see my LML conversion on the board over 3 pages)

  1. The hole in the forks where the brake cable goes through is usually too small for the hose so drill it out with a 10mm drill bit.
  2. You need to remove one banjo fitting from your brake hose (I use a good pair of side-cutter pliers to cut the hose square, but some people tape them and use a small hack-saw) just cut it off underneath the fitting (some kits are too long so you can make your hose the correct length now)
  3. Clamp the banjo in a vice and undo the nut end to remove the piece of hose left in it (you will need to get a new copper olive sealing washer as they can NOT be used again, they are 25 to 50 pence in the UK as a guide)
  4. Use normal pliers to make the hose round again then feed it up through the forks from the bottom so the bare hose is at the top (just cos it easier this way)
  5. Bolt the bottom banjo fitting to the caliper (you can use normal washers if you think you might want to dry build it so you can disassemble it later or use the copper sealing washers and bolt it up properly the first time)
  6. Push the nut part of the brake fitting over the hose taper first
  7. Use a blunt, thin screwdriver (I use an old electrical screwdriver with any sharp edges filed off) to flare out the stainless braid from the teflon inner hose, you need to flare down a good 7mm, but be careful you don`t damage the teflon inner hose or you will have to cut back and start again (always make your hose a little too long just in case of accidents)
  8. Take your new copper olive and slide it over the teflon inner hose (be careful you dont get any stainless braid in the olive as it wont seal fluid tight, I push it against a bench leg to make sure it has fitted properly)
  9. Insert the banjo part of the fitting into the olive and again push against a bench leg to make sure it has slotted in properly.
  10. Start threading the nut end onto the banjo end (make sure it has not cross-threaded), when it has started you can hold the banjo in a large smooth-jawed adjustable spanner/wrench (make sure you use as big a set as possible and that they are set properly so you dont damage the flat sealing faces) and use the correct size open end spanner, or another good adjustable to tighten the nut. You will feel the banjo move as you tighten it up and when you get to the final tightness you can move the banjo end so that it lines up with the hole in the master cylinder (it is hard to describe but you will see what I mean). You want the hose to lie without any tension in it when both banjos are tightened up (you will see what I mean by that too)
  11. Last you need to drill a 12mm hole in the plastic headset top to let the hose through and use a rubber grommet to tidy the hole up. Job done.

Tip for bleeding a new hose;
New hoses can be a pig to bleed so now I use an old hospital syringe and a length of clear plastic hose. Put the hose on the syringe then put the other end onto the bleed nipple, fill the master cylinder with fluid and slacken the bleed nipple a little then just suck the fluid through with the syringe (you may need to tighten the nipple, remove and push the plunger forward a couple of times til it is done), make sure the cylinder is full so you don`t suck air in.


It is the latest disc model I have…someone tried to steel it and mistook the brake hose as a safety chain…(arsehole).
so I am left with a hose cut in half…I bought a new hose which cost 75 pounds from MSC…now I have to get it fitted cos driving arround with just a back brake is rubbish.

I don’t fancy the through the top headset as it may take the look off the scoot.

I may practice what you said on the old cable as a trial run and attempt to fit new cable if all goes well.


Hi brian, if it is the disc model it will have a hole for the hose in the headset top already, and the hole in the mudguard, so it should be even easier to fit the new hose. Also disc forks only have one hole in the leg (drum brake models have 2 holes in for the speedo & brake cables but the brake cable hole is too small for the new hose to fit through so it needs drilling bigger). As yours is a disc model it should only be about a 30 minute job, 60 at the most. Take the headset top and horncover off, remove the old hose (look how it runs through the frame and where it sits with everything else under there) reconnect it each end and bleed it through, compare the old hose to the new one, if you have been sold a standard vespa one it will have the same rubber protection on it as the one you take out but if you just have a hose with a banjo fitting each end you will need to cut the rubbers off your old hose (just cut down one side with a sharp knife and then tape or zip tie them to the new hose) The rubber is there to protect the wiring, cables and mudguard as the braided hose acts like a wire saw over time and will wear through anything it touches. Where in the world are you are you in the UK?

If you having trouble fitting the banjo through the headset just loosen the full thing, lift it off a little, slide the banjo down the big hole where forks were and then push the hose through the gap and put the headset back on.

I think I’ll just take it to a dealer and pay the money…I’m not that technical and I can’t beleive it’s that hard to install it.

I wonder if the vespa dealer in my area will even know how to do this?



Hi Brian, you can not get the banjo fitting off the standard hose as it is swaged /pressed on, but after market hoses have bolt on banjos. It might be a tight fit to squeeze the hose through the frame but it will go, you just need to keep at it, the stock banjo is bigger than a bolt on one and it can be a pig, all the rubber bits make it harder too but are necessary. We are getting to the bottom of the problem now, I thought you were retro fitting a disc to a drum brake fork, so that is why my first reply was so detailed. Now I know you are just replacing a stock hose in a stock disc model it is a simple matter to describe (even though it is a bastard fiddly job) and needs no special tools. Just to check you are just trying to fit the hose up the frame? You have not bolted it to the master cylinder first? I know it might seem a stupid question but I have known people do that. Or if you are having trouble putting through from the bottom, try putting it through from the top, make sure the hose is the right way up as the rubber bits go at the top inside the frame.

Thread it through the headset down and out through the wiring hole covered by the horn cover. Don’t try to take the banjo’s off either end, that will kill it.

Original von slidingdog: I think it goes through the mudguard, not through the steering stem,scootering did a article on fitting one wich might help,

Issue 162 August 1999-continued issue 163 September 1999

Brian, you could fit it the same way as they do on new disc models and all you would need to do is drill a 12mm (or near sized) hole in the mudguard behind the forks (about 1 inch behind and 1/2 an inch to the right of the back mudguard fitting bolt, by the seam) then run the hose up the outside of the steering column under the horn cover and drill a 12mm hole in the plastic headset top to let the hose out at the top. That way you won`t need to touch any of the hose fittings. I think it looks better if the hose is run through the forks though, but it is more work which is why Piaggio run it up the side (to keep production costs down).


The new hose I bought is the exact same as the old one. Can I remove the banjo from the top of the cable where it connects to the headset and feed the cable through the mudguard and fork cos I feel the hose will fit through as it looks like the banjo is the problem.

I tried to take the banjo off the old hose to see if this would work but could not get it loose and I did not want to try it on the new cable as I didn’t want to waste 80 bucks as per earlier post that states if I remove banjo I will ruin the cable.


I think it goes through the mudguard, not through the steering stem,scootering did a article on fitting one wich might help, sorry dont no wich issue,if you wait you will get a better reply ;D

Hi Brian, it`s not hard at all, it just sounds complicated when it is broken down into steps. A dealer will tell you it is a specialist job and charge you lots of money, then laugh behind your back when it only takes him 10 minutes but he keeps your bike three days to make it look like he has done a lot of work.