Hello boys i`m back from holiday and eager to help.
Brian, you will not fit the brake hose through the forks with the banjo fitting on it, this is how I do mine (see my LML conversion on the board over 3 pages)
- The hole in the forks where the brake cable goes through is usually too small for the hose so drill it out with a 10mm drill bit.
- You need to remove one banjo fitting from your brake hose (I use a good pair of side-cutter pliers to cut the hose square, but some people tape them and use a small hack-saw) just cut it off underneath the fitting (some kits are too long so you can make your hose the correct length now)
- Clamp the banjo in a vice and undo the nut end to remove the piece of hose left in it (you will need to get a new copper olive sealing washer as they can NOT be used again, they are 25 to 50 pence in the UK as a guide)
- Use normal pliers to make the hose round again then feed it up through the forks from the bottom so the bare hose is at the top (just cos it easier this way)
- Bolt the bottom banjo fitting to the caliper (you can use normal washers if you think you might want to dry build it so you can disassemble it later or use the copper sealing washers and bolt it up properly the first time)
- Push the nut part of the brake fitting over the hose taper first
- Use a blunt, thin screwdriver (I use an old electrical screwdriver with any sharp edges filed off) to flare out the stainless braid from the teflon inner hose, you need to flare down a good 7mm, but be careful you don`t damage the teflon inner hose or you will have to cut back and start again (always make your hose a little too long just in case of accidents)
- Take your new copper olive and slide it over the teflon inner hose (be careful you don
t get any stainless braid in the olive as it wont seal fluid tight, I push it against a bench leg to make sure it has fitted properly)
- Insert the banjo part of the fitting into the olive and again push against a bench leg to make sure it has slotted in properly.
- Start threading the nut end onto the banjo end (make sure it has not cross-threaded), when it has started you can hold the banjo in a large smooth-jawed adjustable spanner/wrench (make sure you use as big a set as possible and that they are set properly so you don
t damage the flat sealing faces) and use the correct size open end spanner, or another good adjustable to tighten the nut. You will feel the banjo move as you tighten it up and when you get to the final tightness you can move the banjo end so that it lines up with the hole in the master cylinder (it is hard to describe but you will see what I mean). You want the hose to lie without any tension in it when both banjos are tightened up (you will see what I mean by that too)
- Last you need to drill a 12mm hole in the plastic headset top to let the hose through and use a rubber grommet to tidy the hole up. Job done.
Tip for bleeding a new hose;
New hoses can be a pig to bleed so now I use an old hospital syringe and a length of clear plastic hose. Put the hose on the syringe then put the other end onto the bleed nipple, fill the master cylinder with fluid and slacken the bleed nipple a little then just suck the fluid through with the syringe (you may need to tighten the nipple, remove and push the plunger forward a couple of times til it is done), make sure the cylinder is full so you don`t suck air in.