So you had a knee surgery, and how are you now, do you feel better?

Once again you were good and I weld the little thickness under the plate, it seems to be ok now. I’m gonna put my carb and pipe tomorrow.

Did you receive pictures from Beerace pipe?

hello Mikkke,

are you sure everything is flat on their bases? Double check again. Base plate flat and no playing movement. If not you will have an air leak.

mmmm… let’s guess:

OK, after the mod. now the base where the malossi manifold sits is flat on the cases but the screws that have to press the base on the cases don’t „suck“ or press the base enough on it and you have an air leak.
Try to pull the base up with your hand if you can feel a little, even very little moovement. If it is a little movement it means, and it happens, that the 2 fitting screws are too long for your cases and can’t make the base tight to the cases. Take them out and cut half cm. (sometimes is just one of the two screws, more often the one on the left side when you face the base, so maybe you need to cut only one of them)
(is it clear?)

it will take time but you will get it right !

Thanks, thanks, thanks!!!

Don’t you think that some Loctite might secure it all?

… now understand, you meant a kind of liquid gasket.

It is better you do what I wrote before.

Yes I know it can be frustating, because you didn’t know at the beginning these things with malossi reed block.

When I have to mount one I do these things directly at the beggining. I can’t understand the totally approssimative mesuraments of malossi. They should have done a better job.
It is not just your case. With malossi reed block to fit you have to mill the base, often cut the screws, sometimes mill the shoulder on the flywheel side if not you cannot fit the reed manifold…

while you are there check also this last thing.
Sometimes the shoulder of the reed block, the external part of the screw sit, if you see from up it is the part of the manifold closer to the flywheel side, can touch the case flyweel side, also the manifold base could touch it. Check it well maybe you have to mill some off these points too.
It can be necessary in some cases.

First time I fit a malossi block I thought I had a bad serie… now after several I know it is not a plug and play thing, the block the manifold base the screw more or less eveyithing has to be adapted.

But they are cheaper only for the one that can do the mod by themselves…


tanks Ade,

the screws won’t stick out into the engine case, so no danger, but since too long, they won’t be able to press the manifold plate down on the cranckcase and you will have an air leak.

An easy way to see what happen is to screw them down with no manifold plate, to mesure the clearance you have from the base of their head and the cranckcase, and then mesure their sits on the manifold base as if they where there or how much gap there is, how much travel the screw have to do to do their job of making the base tight on the cranckcase.

I don’t know if it is clear, but if not clear just make them 0,25 to 0,5 cm shorter and it will be ok .

And consider that the manifold base (the kind of spacer) most of the time has to be milled if not won’t be flat on the cases since a part of it will touch the 1mm higher plane of the cases.
Mikkke had also this prob. at the beginning

If it is not clear, it is difficult to put in words, I will take some picture and send it on my net address.

hello Mikkke,

tank you my knee is going well, still reabilitation but already better than before surgery.

I am happy to hear you solved the problem with your malossi reed block and that I was of some help.

You said you weld the little tickness under the plate. What do you mean. Sorry I don’t understand. Maybe you wanted to say that you milled away a little alu from the base plate?
We were talking about milling away not welding.

No, I didn’t received any picture from beerace exhaust yet. Maybe he is waiting to have a good finished sample for production.

I am sure they did a good job with this exhaust.
I am looking forward to have one since I also make expansion exhausts from long time (15 years) and I tell you: it is a work of art.

Your answer was clear Master but I have got some Loctite in my factory to seal two pieces, some kind of gasket…

Do you understand what I mean?

I will check, like you said the length of the screws and hope it will be ok!

I’m going more and more frustrated!!!

Good night,


Hi friend,

I still don’t believe what happen, how damned do you know all those things??

I recover my idle, I just cut 2.5mm on a screw (fitted on the rear of the Malossi plate) and now it’s ok!

I just have to ride a little when the weather will be a little more dry to adjust the mainjet and mixture screw. Do you have an idea of the number of turn from zero do I have to unscrew?

Once again thanks, we really need you!!

Mikkke[:bounce:] [:bounce:] [:bounce:] [:bounce:]

I mount my carb and try it, now it sounds better but there’s two problem :

  • I don’t have any idle, I have to do it with the throttle grip even if I move the idle screw there si no change.

  • Sometimes when I stop the engine I can hear some kind of, let me say „couic-couic-couic“!! (This is not a joke!!!)

Have you any idea


I am not saying you have to mill the cases too (you know the little curve we talked about). Just check that the manifold base it is not only flat but also tight on the cases.

For the disc, for me if you have to have one better on the front.
Yes you have to do same mod.
It is not difficult but as usual, cut space for the pump on the handlebar etc…

as far as the daytona rev, I have never mounted one, but it should, and I repeat should take thesignal from the ignition cable so I think you could use it, but as usual better ask to somebody that actually had it on his hand.

Hello, the problem I was facing with my PX150 is that the reeds wasn’t stuck on the engine casings, that’s why I had an air leak,

First I weld some extra materials on the casings ( red lines)
and then I had to cut +/-2.5mm from the screw rear side of the engine ( the screw that goes at the yellow dot)

And now seems to be alright!!


Thanks Curare, I see now.

… some loctite?
I think what I meant was not that clear, sorry.

Let’s try to put in other words:

The malossi manifold base, that kind of flat spacer where the actual manifold sits, it is fixed on the cases by two screws. The screw have to press it down enough if not you will have an air leak. To press the base down these two screws have to go enough inside the cases. If the cases space for this screws is not deep enough, even of 1mm, when you screw them all the way down it would not be enough to press the base.

Ok, do this:
Take the base out.
Screw the screws all the way down their crank sits.
Take something to measure the distance that there is from the bottom part of the screw head base and the cranckcase.

This distance must be less then the space on their manifold base sits if not they won’t press the base down.

In this case you have to cut a little the screw on their length to make them shorter.

It is not a loctite question. Loctite is to avoid the screw to unscrew under vibration.

I hope now it is clearer.

… mikkke
I have posted same picture of inlet port milling to fit malossi reed.
First fase of milling.

to see them you know you go on my:

Yes Curare, you are right I did what you say „I milled away a little alu from the base plate“

I have to do some shopping right now (beuuurkkk!!!) and then I will mount my carb and pipe to check if it’s ok.

I will not ride today as it is snowing a lot over here in Belgium!

See you soon, good reabilitation!


I weld on the Malossi plate but not on the casings, I didn’t feel any movement!

I will check once again, for the screw I will try to cut them just to be sure!

I put the 130 mainjet!

I’ll try to check tomorrow after the work and tell you more here!

Is it possible to mount a Daytona Rev counter if I haven’t any battery?

Is it many work or modification to do to mount a disc brake?
Are the SIP one’s ok?
Do you think it’s better front or rear?



Hi Curare, get well soon, I know what it is like to be recovering from treatment, I have had 4 operations in 2 1/2 years and nearly 3 years off work. NOT FUN. Can you confirm for me; when you fit a Malossi reed manifold sometimes the screws need cutting down as they can stick out into the engine and hit the crank, I think this is what you mean, I will check my PX210 as I have just replaced the screws with stainless steel ones so you may have saved me damaging my motor, I will check them before I run the motor. Thanks. Ade

ok, I have posted same picture of the modifications that most of the time are necessary to fit the malossi reed manifold.

I have tried to post them here in the forum but since I am a computer idiot I have failed as expected.

So you can see them on my

I wrote explication on each picture. I think now should be clear…

In same case could be necessary another minor mod…but not always…

I hope this would be of some help guys.

Hi friend,

I still don’t believe what happen, how damned do you know all those things??

I recover my idle, I just cut 2.5mm on a screw (fitted on the rear of the Malossi plate) and now it’s ok!

I just have to ride a little when the weather will be a little more dry to adjust the mainjet and mixture screw. Do you have an idea of the number of turn from zero do I have to unscrew?

Once again thanks, we really need you!!

Mikkke[:bounce:] [:bounce:] [:bounce:] [:bounce:]