case porting

hi again ive just stripped my motor and wish to match my cases
to my new malossi kit can any1 give me a run down on how to do it ?ive marked around the base gasket and am standing with dremel in hand wondering how to go about it ,do i just take copy the depth and length of the old transfers or what ?
thanks for any help

what do i have to put down to get these signitures to work then ?
and yes i know im shite with puters

Stevie, mark around the inside of the base gasket like you have, then carve out following the same system of the existing transfers but no need to go down into the casings as much, 3/4 of the depth is enough. 3 reasons, one it doesnt need more than that two, less carving three, it guarentees your not going to meet fresh air , a major no. once youve done so put your barrel studs back in and feel the match, then bring out to be smooth. angle them to about40 degrees. also, befpore you start carving away, check you will be left with about 2mm of gasket face, to seal the base gasket. Are you altering anything else or just the transfers? Vespadoc; thanks for kind words in re; Pitone Exhausts, Big Up. Cheers. S

ty for the info beerace ive started the porting job and think i understand what you ve writen ive had a look down the barrel at the ports and think im going to need to go deeper vespadoc recons i should open the inlet up a little so i m going to do that when i finish the ports ,any tips on doin that would be welcome. thanks again

Yep, thats about it. you can go backwards aswell by 2mm. like i said you can widen slightly aswell. if your not doing the crank do as the Doc says and bring the port forward more than the 4mm but leave a good 2mm+ OF THE PAD TO SEAL…

talkin about me behind my back eh??
stevie.inlet opening:remove crank and look at the elongated hole in the raised portion that seals to the crank.just file this shape further round but as the ace says leave a couple o mil at the front to allow it to still for you beerace,the comments were honest and meant.thanks for your help and may the next meeting bring even better prospects for the future

stroud valleys(midnight hour)sc est 1984

Ahh. now are you prepared to cut your crank either by stripping it (doing job proper) or cover it in tape (bodge, potentially disastrous), or are you using a „race“ crank like a mazzucelli. casings first, as per mr malossi, mark out forward of the inlet port by 4mm and to the rear, furthest from the barrel, 2mm. you can go slightly wider aswell but leave min of 1.4 mm to seal on the pad. on the crank, standard that is, cut/machine 10-14 mm off the crank web furthest from the big end pin. (11-13 is safe and ride-able without wreckin rest of your engine components) if using a RACE crank, fit it and ride the bugger. easy. job done

thanks for that fellas so all i got to do to the inlet is mark up 4 mill from front edge of hole then remove the metal to that line and to the same width as the original hole ? i know i m dense sorry guys