best kit

what kit would you recomend for a px 125. Im only fitting a kit and a sito plus and keeping the standard carb. only ever kitted t5 and p2 and allways used malossi but i see that a lot of you seem to use polini so some advice would be great cheers [:drink:] [:drink:]

Armandos stock Pinasco in England. Speak to Giuliano, very helpful I am planning a 213 kit for my PX200, as I much prefer mid-range power to the manic delivery you get from Malossi and Polini.

Hi Grant
,found this photo somewhere ( It might be curare’s?? I can’t remember). It looks ok. But wait for other opinions from people who know more about these things . Don’t forget to match your gaskets!

And a general question to all. If this modified carb box was put onto an unmodified inlet port, what are the benifits or problems etc??

Cheers Paul

I have a Pinasco 180 with a Sito plus on my LML 125. Lovely broad spread of power, no discernable „power band“ that you get with the Mallossi. Using a 26mm SI rather than the standard carb, the Sito seems to suit the kit’s power delivery very well. I’ve done over a thousand miles with it now and no complaints. Bought it from SIP as I don’t think any dealers in the UK stock it (if that’s where you are). I bought the carb from SIP also but Chiselspeed and Beedspeed in the UK sell them cheaper now. Other good points are that it’s a nicasil lined ali barrel that requires minimal running in. The transfers aren’t as big as those of a Mallossi so it works well as a straight bolt on.

If you go back through the threads you’ll find many others recommend it also.

Good luck, AK

The Dr kit is the easiest to fit with no modifications to the engine as the ports match the standard set-up, at the base gasket.

Hi,

Questions for Anthony and Adrian regarding opening up carb box with the 24 carb - could you tell me the procedure for doing this please? And does it make a noticeable difference?

Cheers guys

Grant

Paul, it is easier to do it than describe it, if you are ok with a dremel. I didn’t take mine as big as the one in the picture, I’d guess the one shown there has had the engine inlet opened out to match. I don’t see any problems, only if you take it out too much and can’t get a gasket to seal, see the thin edge of the gasket face on the carb box in the picture, it looks about 2-3mm which is the minumum. Mine is just matched to the standard inlet so has plenty of metal left, all you are really doing is finishing off the carb box where the factory leave it as it comes from mass production, it took me an hour, so if you think the factory is saving that hour on what? 100 bikes a day? probably nearer 1000 a day is what they make, judging from the pictures I have seen of the LML factory. The benefits are, on mine at least, it starts better, first kick even if stood a month, better fuel efficiency, it used to smell of petrol much more than now cos it was a bottleneck, fuel was backing up at the inlet due to the restrictions, now it goes straight in. I noticed fuel starvation at high revs, it felt like it couldn’t suck enough through until I did the carb box, now it gets what it wants, when it wants, with nothing in the way. It also revs a lot cleaner now. I don’t know what power difference is released by this but there is a noticeable change, the engine feels happier, if that don’t sound too weird.

Dan

If you have a 24mm carb you may as well stick it on. You’ll probably need to open up the hole in the carb box slightly, thanks for that tip, Adrian! You don’t really need to port the crankcase with the Pinasco as the transfer ports are only slightly bigger than standard. If you are stripping the engine anyway you may as well do this though. I’ll do mine later as the scoot’s only done 1300 miles. I run my 26mm SI with a 125 main jet. Suppose you could start with the same and check the plug. You don’t want to be running weak.

If your scoot’s the electric start model you’ll need to machine 1mm or so of material off the side of the barrel on the flywheel side otherwise it will catch on the electric start gear. May also need to shave the bottom cooling fin slightly. Best to to keep sliding the barrel on without the piston fitted until you get this right.

You’ll notice a big difference in performance.

Cheers, Anthony

hello,

it depends how much you are willing to spend, with standard carb and no cranckcase work I would go for a Pinasco or for a DR.

Hi Ade,
Looking back into the depths of my mind ( circa 1986ish) I do recall opening up an airbox. with a rounded file didn’t have Dremels in those days just hammers, rounded files and cans of matt black paint, You know? It wasn’t too difficult as you say , but to be honest then I probably did it out of boredom or wanten destruction rather than to get any noticable power or a better response from the engine. Anything that might have been gained,wasn’t noticed as I blew up a then recently tuned/ported barrel some 30 miles later!
Aye,those were the days and if you tell that to the kids of today, they won’t bloodey believe it…

This time round I’ll be a bit more careful.Maybe?

Cheers Paul [:smile:]

When I fitted my 26mm SI carb I saw that the gasket half blocked the hole of the engine inlet and the carb box didn’t line up to it either, also the new carb had a bigger hole which would have thrown it out even more. I marked the base gasket of the carb box to the engine inlet and trimmed it to make a template for a new gasket. Made a new gasket. Used the template to mark the bottom of the carb box and dremelled the box to line up properly. Then I did the same with the carb gasket, made the hole in the gasket match the carb, marked the top of the carb box through the gasket and dremelled it to suit, mine isn’t as big as the picture Paul put up, but you will get the idea. It makes a difference as you improve the fuel flow to the engine, on mine I think the Indians use the gasket to restrict the motor, think of it as derestricting the standard motor more than tuning. I’d recommend anyone to just take a look to see how out of line the holes are between the carb and inlet etc. You can always open the engine inlet for proper tuning in the future. Mine now has an oval hole in the carb box matched exactly to the engine inlet, with the round hole for the carb at one end, flowing in nicely to the engine inlet.

i dont mind porting casings as ive got to do bearings anyway and might have a 24 carb lying about would that be better