210 stalling at 30!

Hi all
I’ve just fitted a Malossi and SIP pipe on a 200 with std carb upjetted to 130.

All went well - started first time(!) and runs as expected, but when I reach 25/30mph it just stalls. No over revving, no strange noises, just acts like it’s run out of fuel…

The carb has been cleaned, no leaks anywhere…fuel in the tank, new fuel pipe…

Any ideas?
Which jet(s) being used at this speed (at low revs as it’s running in)?

Also fitted a 23 cosa clutch - it’s absolutely amazing! With a teflon cable it’s like a knife through butter…wish I’d bought one years ago.



to find out if its fuel flow causing the problem get it out on the road and give the bugger a good ramp through third gear but dont peak at the top of the revs.accelorate from low down second gear instead of ramping it in second and just let the revs build and build.because you’ll have the throttle wide open for a long time in third if fuel flow is the cause it just wont pick up.the other thing could be the atomizer tube and holder.i used a 190 air tube and be4/be5 atomizer as it gives a better mist of fuel and doesnt drip globules into the crank.the only other thing maybe the clutch side seal on its way out.look for smoke(light blue)

stroud valleys(midnight hour)sc est 1984

Been watching this one. Steven, double check your ignition timing. timing should be in region of 17-19 btdc go for 18.

Thanks beerace

I’d forgotten about the electrical side of things…

The plate was set right (1[H] so I tried a bit this way, a bit that way, 17 seemed to give a little bit more power…

But the leak has now started again - something is leaking onto the rear hub dustplate, then over the tyre! Quite a bit but only when it gets hot, and only after a run (ie not left static to get hot).

I’ve checked the clutch cover o rings (as it seems to be oil dripping down the clutch arm onto the dustplate), all are new and look ok.

One problem might be that the cover is off an '85 200 lump, the case is a brand new electric start. Are they perhaps slightly different? The clutch is a cosa 23 and works well.

Has anyone else ‚transplanted‘ an old 200 to a new case?

I really need some transport soon - the tube is costing me way too much…


just one more thing and it sounds daft but…did you put the piston on the right way round,middle transfer port to the top??.if not its trying to run on two ports and causing major turbulence under the piston which will make it run rich and like a pile of shit

stroud valleys(midnight hour)sc est 1984

Something else. youve transplanted guts of old p2 into new casings. whats happening in the oil pump dept. what carb. what drillings etc. difficult without being there. cant harry’s help you? When i went to see him he gave the impression he knew a bit, a little bit anyway. also whats your float and needle/ fuel flow into carb itself, not just out the end of pipe.

Sure the ‚clang‘ wasn’t just the kickstart slipping round a tooth?

If you have a bit of wear on the ratchet teeth they do this sometimes, especially with the higher compression of a kit.


vespadoctor - you were right - the flywheel came off nice and easy and we all know that’s not the way it usually is!

The rings are ok (and yes, the right way), the head is a new centre spark one for malossi from some guys called sip…

If I get this strange looking thing from scootrs is there anything I need to know? Is a standard case (ported just for the cyclinder) ok?

The dollar makes it very cheap to buy at the moment!

thanks a lot for your appreciation mate,ive lost count of the amount of knuckle skin ive lost and tools thrown across the garage to learn what i have so its nice to pass it on without people having to find out the hard way,it makes the work that much more enjoyable when you can be aimed in the right direction to begin with.firstly go back to the bigger jet for running in.if its pulling better lower down then its running weak so a richer mix is needed especially for running in when its all tight and hot.secondly you can forget the fuel pump it just wont need it with a standard carb setup and as high as a 140 main jet.ive only just gone up to a fuel pump with a totally modified malossi 210/sip pipe/30mm oval bore keihin carb/ mikuni power jet fitted/reed block and a throttle happy wrist.currently getting 45-50 miles to a tank

stroud valleys(midnight hour)sc est 1984

the leak could be the breather on the top of the clutch cover or the o ring on the cover.try taking the clutch cover off and stick some gasket sealer or a new o ring on it to find out.as for the bogging down.fire it up and just rev the feck out of it NOT ONE CONTINUOUS BURST just rev rev rev rev for a couple o minutes.the b7 plug should be cock on or try a b8 for long runs.the only other thing with the richness could be the clutch side seal.when you rev it does she smoke like a bitch???

stroud valleys(midnight hour)sc est 1984

bang and smoke:
found it! just the woodruff key had snapped! simple problem for a change…

clucth side oile leak:
I think the oil leak is the old 200 clutch cover not sitting exactly on the new 200 case. So i’m off to find a new clutch cover, refill the oil, and back to the tuning problems…

Going back to basics - when you fit a kit, what are the reasons for low power?
No air leaks, no sudden changes in revving, fuel flow ok…

Maybe I should stick a new carb in? I’ve found that sometimes whatever you do to an old carb, you never resolve the problems.

Any advice on what to buy? I’ve seen some strange looking pwk ones at scootrs. Anyone used these?


Vespadoc is the man to ask, im sure hell give you his opinion on them. When me and the doc met up he said best carb hed ever used. Not tried on myself but going to order one soon. gotta try it for myself. Another thought on yours, and it shouldnt make a problem you describe, but will be terminal, are the rings in the right way up? wrong way up can be disastrous. worth checking unless you like paying out wads. Also, have you got a reprofiled head.

an update:
Just put in a BE4, and a 132 main jet. Checked fuel line etc - all seems ok.

It runs well when static - throttle sounds great - starts well, idles well.

As soon as you start moving…then the problems start…

Pulling the clutch in - all ok - no loss.
Change to first - ok again.

Then pull off…very little power but you move…change to 2nd - starts bogging, try pulling through the revs in 3rd but it doesn’t clear and tries to stall…

No more leaks anywhere - except through the pipe (i’m hoping this will stop soon…).

Any ideas? Running rich on a NGK 7 spark.


the smoke is just the result of the metal-hitting-metal clang…

it made one ‚clang‘ at the bottom of a kickstart, before it sparked or anything, then I stopped trying to kick it…

obviously something major’s happened inside…

it definately wasn’t just the kick! if only it was…

something internal made the noise and gave off a puff of smoke!

I’ve checked the carb and all the screws etc are where they should be so nothing dropped in by mistake…

Thanks Vespadoctor - I think it’s about time we all thanked you for all your advice over here in SIP-land!

I’ve noticed that most of the good/handy advice in this forum seems to come from your hands…maybe SIP should send a little present your way…

Back to my lump… fitted a smaller main jet (130 from 134 as it’s still running in) and this strangely seemed to help a little at low speed…

Also found a little leak around the rear hub, so I’ll fix this and fit a BE4 tomorrow.

Hopefully this will resolve the probs - at the moment it accelerates like an old 50 but sounds like a monster coming around the corner…not a great combo!

Maybe a fuel pump might be a good investment…

It revs great when static, just the usual bit of smoke to start with - so I guess the seals are ok?

I’ll look at the breather again.

I’m pretty certain the piston is in the right way - although we’re all human and can make mistakes! There was 2 of us putting it in and I’m sure one of us would’ve noticed…

But the power is so bad it may be the next thing to check…

REV REV REVing didn’t make any difference…

Are there any experienced tuners in London?
The shops here are all useless and unhelpful…

when i got the carb i put it straight onto a 350ypvs mounting rubber on my reed block but it will slip straight onto a 28/30 mounting rubber i.e. polini/malossi.the manifold with it was a ts1 and the joining rubber was shit so you may need to buy a rubber mount seperate.the carb you want is the pwk type 28/30 oval bore.maybe a range of jets as well which they sell in 5’s.currently running a 146 main jet with my setup but its a bit extreme currently running at 14-16 mpg but its a serious setup.these carbs really are the dogs hairy bits.you may find that with the flywheel bolted on tight it will run a lot better

stroud valleys(midnight hour)sc est 1984

It’s a std 24SI carb - I blanked off the autolube inlet on the casing.

latest news:
checked all the fuel flow - fills the carb filter nicely and quickly.

cleaned the carb again

kicked it over…didn’t turn over… but bang! some metal on metal sound and a puff of smoke from the carb area!!!

now what’s happened? A broken ring? something fell in the case whilst the carb was off?
I’m very careful about taking the carb off so I doubt if a dropped something in…What else could it be?

Guess I’ll be splitting the case again this weekend - at least I can check the clutch side seal…

I think my scooter’s waiting for summer to be ready…

Something else. youve transplanted guts of old p2 into new casings. whats happening in the oil pump dept. what carb. what drillings etc. difficult without being there. cant harry’s help you? When i went to see him he gave the impression he knew a bit, a little bit anyway. also whats your float and needle/ fuel flow into carb itself, not just out the end of pipe.